Introduction
After a lot of research, I finally settled on my first two test cameras to replace two Arlo Pro units that have become basically unusable, the TP-Link Tapo C230. This is how it went.
I originally planned to replace the Living Room and Family Room Arlo cameras with TP-Link Tapo C230 units. But I ran into a problem. Moving the Living Room camera to the extension would place it on a different Arlo base station. Arlo dropped support for the Pro 1 and Pro 2 cameras, so if I disconnect them, they won’t reconnect.
To avoid breaking the existing Arlo setup, I’m moving one of the new C230 cameras to the extension instead, while keeping the other C230 in the original plan. I delayed the physical installation because the wall mounts haven’t arrived yet, but I can still do the most important part first: connect the cameras, set them up, and test them before mounting anything permanently.
To avoid breaking the existing Arlo setup, I’m moving one of the new C230 cameras to the extension instead, while keeping the other C230 as planned. The physical installation has been delayed because the wall mounts haven’t arrived yet, but I can still do the most important part first: connect the cameras, set them up, and test them before mounting anything permanently.
My goal is to test the cameras in two ways:
- Via the phone app to confirm the basics work as expected.
- Via RTSP streaming to my computer via VLC, to confirm the cameras can stream outside of the Tapo app.
VLC is an open-source program that can receive RTSP (Real Time Streaming Protocol), so is convenient to use. Long-term I’m also interested in ONVIF (Open Network Video Interface Forum) which includes PTF (pan/tilt/zoom) capabilities. But it will require a custom setup, so its a future project.
When I get to the actual installation will depend on when the remaining parts arrive.
Unboxing, Parts, and Tools
I ordered $70 (US) of items from Shoppie (technically the order was placed for me as I won’t use a site that wants to force login just to browse). Also, I almost never gets exactly what was ordered from Shoppie anyway, so there is some risk there.
I’ll be placing the cameras in their general mounting locations for testing, but I need to wait for the wall mounts to arrive before I complete the installation.
Before unpacking everything, I want to talk about the other items and tools I will need.
- First and foremost, a hammer drill and carbide masonry bits are needed. A regular drill and drill bits are not going to cut it in a cement house.
- A level and a measuring tape to determine where to place the anchors.
- A ladder and extension cord will also be very helpful.
- Will also need the TP-Link application installed on my phone, and VLC installed on my computer
Unpacking is typically video-recorded here in the Philippines for documentation in case of shipping issues.
Removing the plastic and opening the Tapo box we find:
- a QR code for application setup.
- a install guide for the camera.
- Some other legal documentation in the box
- A template and hardware for the ceiling mount are included, which I won’t be using, opting for a wall mount instead.
- The power adapter looks like it has a 3 meter cord.
- And finally there is the camera itself. Construction is okay, but the plastic is thinner than what is on the certified for outdoor usage Arlo cameras. The C230 is strictly for indoor use, which is probably why.
The power cord extender appears to be about 2 meters long. I was expecting a 1 meter cord. But too much is better than too little when it comes to wiring. Extra cord can always be coiled.
The adhesive raceways for the walls are about 12 meters, this is double what I was expecting. But this was the smallest package available, and I can use the rest of it on other installs as I continue to replace the Arlo cameras.
Initial Setup
Before powering on the camera, I want to setup the TP-Link application. If you’ve never used TP-Link equipment before, you may need to download the app using the QR code provided with the camera. If you don’t have a TP-Link account, you’ll need to create one.
While you can opt out of User Experience Improvements, you’ll need to accept the privacy policy.
Once you’re logged in, select the small camera icon at the bottom of the screen. Then scroll through the list and find your camera model. I select C230 from the list.
After selecting the camera model, power up the camera. It will run its startup routine, and the LED above the lens will flash red and green. If the camera doesn’t complete startup, try unplugging it for several minutes. If that doesn’t work, rotate the lens up and use the reset button next to the microSD card slot.
Next, turn on your phone’s location services (if it isn’t already enabled) and grant the app permission to use them.
To set up the camera initially, you’ll need to connect your phone to the camera’s 2.4 GHz Wi‑Fi signal. This involves opening your phone’s Wi‑Fi settings and manually connecting to the camera’s Wi‑Fi network. When you connect, your phone may show a “no internet” message, that’s normal.
After that, return to the app. It should be searching for the camera and finding it. If it can’t be found, check your Wi‑Fi settings and try again. If the camera has been setup before, you may need to use the reset button.
Once the camera is identified, you will need to connect it to your router’s 2.4 GHz Wi‑Fi network. 5 GHz network is not supported on the C230 model. You’ll also need to enter your Wi‑Fi password.
After the camera connects, you’ll be guided through a short setup wizard. Anything you set here can be changed later.
Finally, you can subscribe to the TAPO cloud service, or you’ll be prompted to set up a local microSD card as storage. Move the lens up until the card slot is visible, insert a microSD card (up to 512 GB), then choose to format it. Once formatting is complete, the camera is ready to use.
Testing the Camera
Our next step is to restart everything and confirm that all components connect properly. You should be able to view the camera feed on your phone, and you should be able to use the pan and tilt controls. Please walk through the available functions to confirm they work and that you understand how to use them.
This is a basic test to verify that the phone connection is functioning. I suggest running the tests on cellular and WiFi separately to make sure it works both ways. After the cameras are mounted, I will run a more thorough test.
Next, to test streaming to other devices, select the nut (settings) icon in the upper-right corner of the phone screen. This opens the settings menu. Go to Advanced Settings.
- Select Network Settings and write down the camera’s IP address.
Note: once the camera is permanently mounted, I will configure a static IP address. - Go to Camera Account. To stream to another device, you must create an account and password for the camera. For this quick test, I will use test credentials. Once the camera is permanently mounted, I will switch to a more secure account name and password.
For a quick test, open VLC on your computer: From the menu select Media → Open Network Stream. For this temporary setup (you will need to adjust for your network) use: rtsp://testing2:testing2@172.20.30.175:554/stream1
What each part means:
rtsp://= RTSP streaming protocoltesting2:= temporary usernametesting2= temporary password@172.20.30.175= camera IP address:554= port numberstream1= high-resolution video/audio stream
(A lower-resolution stream,stream2, is also available.)
At this point, we have tested everything we needed to test.
Notes about Network Setup
For this initial test, my network contains of the following items:
- Two Cameras.
- A wifi 2.4 GHz enabled router connected to my ISP.
- And a Tailscale scale subnet router.
When my phone is on my local network it communicates with the cameras via WiFi and TP-Link servers.
My computer on the other hand, using RTSP communicates only over the LAN, either WiFi or hardwired.
Outside the Local LAN I run a Tailscale client, which connects to my Tailscale scale subnet router via the Tails network, allowing me RTSP access remotely as well.
I am running Linux, for which TP-Link does not make a dedicated application. I can get around this restriction running the Windows application via the wine translation layer, or in my Windows Virtual machine.
Since an app runs on MacOS, I have thought about trying to get that version to run on Linux. But with other simpler options available, it is not worth the effort.
Besides, using Arlo, I have found that the majority of time I access the security cameras via the phone application and almost never the web interface.
Conclusion
That is it for initial testing of the cameras. So far everything is working the way it si suppose too. As I have indicated, after permanent mounting I will reconfigure the cameras with more privacy focused options, and run a longer more extensive test.
I have found the overall installation process easy to follow and understand. At some future point I want to install a hub that can use a 2.5” SSD as storage rather than individual SD cards in each camera. When I get to that point, I will document the process in another video.
But for now the two cameras are up and running, doing what they are suppose too. So mission objective achieved. If they function without issue, then I will want to replace two more cameras next month.



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